What do dogs actually need to eat?
Dogs are omnivores, unlike cats, they can synthesize nutrients from both animal and plant sources, though animal protein remains their primary dietary need. A complete and balanced commercial dog food must meet the minimum nutrient profiles set by AAFCO (Association of American Feed Control Officials) or FEDIAF (European equivalent). Look for these standards on the label.
The six essential nutrients for dogs are: proteins (for muscle, enzymes, hormones), fats (energy, brain function, fat-soluble vitamins), carbohydrates (energy, fiber), vitamins, minerals, and water. A high-quality commercial diet that meets AAFCO/FEDIAF standards provides all of these in appropriate ratios, you generally don't need to supplement unless your vet recommends it.
💡 WSAVA tip: Choose a dog food manufacturer that employs a board-certified veterinary nutritionist and conducts feeding trials, not just formulation analysis. Visit the WSAVA Global Nutrition Committee guidelines for vetted questions to ask your pet food company.
How to read a dog food label
The ingredients list is ordered by pre-cooking weight, so meat listed first doesn't always mean it's the highest-calorie source, since meat is 70% water before cooking. A more useful metric is the "guaranteed analysis" panel, which shows minimum protein and fat percentages and maximum moisture and fiber.
What to look for:
- Named animal protein source in the first 1-2 ingredients (chicken, salmon, beef, not "meat meal" of unknown origin)
- AAFCO or FEDIAF statement of nutritional adequacy for the correct life stage
- Manufacturer contact information and ideally a feeding trial statement
- Appropriate calorie content for your dog's size and activity level
What doesn't matter much:
- "Grain-free" labels, grains are not harmful to most dogs and there is no peer-reviewed evidence they cause food allergies in the general dog population. Grain-free diets have been investigated by the FDA in connection with dilated cardiomyopathy (DCM)
- "Natural" or "premium", these are marketing terms with no regulatory definition
- Exotic ingredients (bison, kangaroo), not inherently better than chicken or beef
Life-stage feeding
Nutritional needs change significantly across a dog's life. Using the wrong life-stage food can cause long-term harm, particularly for large-breed puppies fed standard puppy food, and for seniors with kidney or heart conditions.
Puppies
Puppies need significantly more calories per kg than adults, roughly 2-3 times more depending on size. They also need higher protein, calcium, and phosphorus for bone and muscle development. Large and giant breed puppies specifically need a food formulated for "large breed puppies", these have controlled calcium and phosphorus levels that prevent too-rapid bone growth, which can cause developmental orthopedic disease (DOD). Do not use standard puppy food or adult food for large-breed puppies. Use our Dog Food Calculator for portion guidance.
Adults (1–7 years)
Maintenance nutrition. A food labeled "for adult dogs" or "all life stages" is appropriate. The main variables are calorie density and protein level based on activity. Sedentary indoor dogs need fewer calories than working dogs. Neutered/spayed dogs should be monitored for weight gain, they typically need 20-30% fewer calories than intact dogs.
Seniors (7+ years)
Senior dogs do not always need "senior food", there is no universal AAFCO standard for senior nutrition, and requirements vary by individual health status. Many senior dogs benefit from high-quality protein (not reduced protein, unless kidney disease is present), joint supplements (omega-3 fatty acids, glucosamine), and controlled calories to maintain healthy weight. Consult your vet for personalized advice.
Foods that are toxic to dogs 🚫
⚠️ Never feed these to your dog: Chocolate, xylitol (in sugar-free products), grapes and raisins, onions and garlic (all forms), macadamia nuts, alcohol, avocado, raw yeast dough, and caffeine. Even small amounts of some of these (especially xylitol, grapes, and dark chocolate) can be fatal. If ingested, contact your vet or animal poison control immediately.
Treats safe in moderation include small pieces of cooked chicken or turkey (no bones), carrots, blueberries, and plain cooked sweet potato. Always ensure treats do not exceed 10% of daily calorie intake.
Dry vs wet vs raw dog food
Dry kibble is convenient, cost-effective, and calorie-dense. It does not significantly clean teeth (contrary to common belief) but is nutritionally complete when AAFCO/FEDIAF approved. Most dogs do well on high-quality dry food throughout their lives.
Wet food has higher moisture content (70-80%), which benefits urinary health and is easier to eat for dogs with dental issues or poor appetite. It is typically more expensive per calorie and has a strong smell. Excellent as a supplement or primary diet.
Raw diets (BARF/prey model) are controversial. While proponents claim benefits, peer-reviewed research shows raw diets carry risks including bacterial contamination (Salmonella, E. coli, Listeria), nutritional imbalance, and zoonotic disease transmission. The WSAVA, AVMA, and ASPCA do not recommend raw diets. If you choose raw feeding, consult a board-certified veterinary nutritionist to ensure the diet is balanced.
Body condition scoring: the best nutrition tool
The most practical guide to whether your dog is eating the right amount is the Body Condition Score (BCS), a 9-point scale used by vets. At BCS 4-5 (ideal), you can easily feel ribs without pressing hard, and there is a visible waist tuck when viewed from above. BCS 6-7 means overweight; 8-9 means obese. If you cannot feel your dog's ribs, reduce daily portions by 10-15% and reassess monthly. Use our Dog Food Calculator to get your starting portion, then adjust based on BCS.
🩺 This guide provides general information based on WSAVA and AVMA published standards. Always consult a licensed veterinarian for individual dietary advice, especially for dogs with health conditions.